Shokuyoku no Aki: Why Autumn in Japan Is a Feast for the Senses
Growing up in Zimbabwe, autumn was never really a season I paid much attention to. In fact, coming from a country where the four seasons aren't as distinctly experienced as they are in some parts of the world, autumn was more of a concept I understood from watching movies, reading books and occasionally scrolling through pictures on the internet. I knew about the beautiful golden, orange and reddish-brown leaves, pumpkin-spiced everything, cosy sweaters, harvest festivals and the romanticised idea of walking through streets covered in fallen leaves. But experiencing all of that firsthand? That was a completely different story.
When I moved to Japan, I finally got to experience autumn in a way I had only imagined before, and I must say, it quickly became my favourite season here. Japan has four distinct seasons, each with its own personality, traditions and charm. However, if I had to choose a favourite, autumn would win without much competition. Perhaps it's because I am not particularly fond of extremes when it comes to weather. Japanese summers can be unbearably hot and humid, while winters, especially in certain parts of the country, can be painfully cold. Autumn, on the other hand, feels like nature has finally decided to meet us somewhere in the middle. The temperatures are comfortable, the air becomes a little crisper, the landscapes transform into beautiful shades of red, yellow and orange, and suddenly, even going for an ordinary walk feels like an experience worth appreciating.
But today, I am not here to talk about the weather, the beautiful autumn foliage or the many places you can visit to enjoy the season. Today, I want us to explore another side of Japanese autumn, one that is perhaps just as exciting as the scenery: the food!
One thing I have come to appreciate about Japan is how deeply connected its food culture is to the changing seasons. Food here isn't simply about eating to satisfy hunger; it is also about appreciating nature, celebrating seasonal produce, preserving traditions and enjoying ingredients when they are at their very best. There is even a Japanese expression, shokuyoku no aki (食欲の秋), which translates to "autumn of appetite" or "autumn, the season of good appetite". And honestly, after learning about some of the foods associated with this season, I can understand why. Autumn is a particularly generous time of year, with freshly harvested rice, chestnuts, sweet potatoes, mushrooms, persimmons and seasonal fish making their way onto Japanese dining tables. It is almost as though nature has prepared its own special menu before winter arrives.
One of the traditions that introduces us to the relationship between autumn, food and Japanese culture is Tsukimi (月見), which literally means moon viewing. Traditionally celebrated around the harvest moon, particularly during the fifteenth night of the eighth month in the traditional lunar calendar, Tsukimi is an occasion when people gather to appreciate the beauty of the full moon. It is a lovely tradition that reminds us that not every celebration needs loud music, elaborate decorations or a grand event. Sometimes, simply taking a moment to appreciate nature is enough. During this period, households and communities prepare special offerings, with Tsukimi dango being one of the most recognisable. These are small, round, white rice dumplings, usually arranged in a pyramid-like formation to represent the full moon. Their round shape symbolises the moon, while the offering is associated with wishes for good health, happiness and a successful harvest. They are often displayed alongside susuki, Japanese pampas grass, which resembles rice stalks and is traditionally associated with protection and the harvest. Other seasonal produce, including chestnuts, sweet potatoes and taro roots, may also be offered. I find something particularly beautiful about this tradition because it connects food with gratitude. It is a reminder to appreciate what the earth provides and to acknowledge the changing seasons.
Speaking of harvests, one of the most anticipated arrivals in Japanese autumn is Shinmai (新米), which refers to newly harvested rice. Rice is such an important part of Japanese food culture that the arrival of a fresh harvest is genuinely something to look forward to. Unlike rice that has been stored for longer periods, freshly harvested rice is known for its moisture, glossy appearance, soft texture and naturally sweet flavour. Depending on the region and harvest, new rice begins appearing in markets and supermarkets during autumn. For someone who enjoys rice as much as I do, this is certainly an interesting seasonal tradition to learn about. One popular way of enjoying it is Kuri Gohan, which is rice cooked together with fresh chestnuts. The combination creates a comforting dish with a lovely nutty flavour and a subtle sweetness from the chestnuts. It is one of those meals that perfectly captures the feeling of autumn: warm, wholesome and uncomplicated. Another popular preparation is Kamameshi, a traditional rice dish cooked with different ingredients in individual iron pots. Depending on the variety, it can include mushrooms, seafood, chicken, vegetables or seasonal produce. The rice absorbs the flavours of the ingredients as it cooks, resulting in a delicious and aromatic meal. There is something wonderful about the idea of enjoying a freshly prepared pot of rice with ingredients that are only available at certain times of the year.
Now, if there is one fish that has practically earned celebrity status during Japanese autumn, it is Sanma (秋刀魚), also known as Pacific saury. Interestingly, the Japanese name can be translated as "autumn knife fish", a reference to its slender, elongated body and its association with the autumn season. Sanma is one of Japan's classic autumn delicacies, and the traditional way of preparing it is surprisingly simple. It is usually seasoned with salt and grilled whole, a preparation known as Sanma Shioyaki. The fish is often served with grated daikon radish, soy sauce and sometimes a citrus fruit such as sudachi. The combination of the smoky, slightly crispy skin, tender flesh and refreshing accompaniments makes for a much-loved seasonal meal. Some people also enjoy the fish with its slightly bitter internal organs, although this is very much a matter of personal preference. What I find interesting is how a simple preparation can become such an important part of a country's seasonal food culture. Rather than masking the flavour with too many ingredients, the Japanese often allow the natural taste of the fish to take centre stage.
Another autumn ingredient that deserves special mention is Matsutake (松茸), a highly prized wild mushroom known for its distinctive and incredibly fragrant aroma. Unlike ordinary mushrooms, matsutake is particularly difficult to cultivate commercially, which contributes to its reputation as a luxury ingredient. It grows naturally in association with pine trees and has a relatively short harvesting season. In Japanese cuisine, its aroma is just as important as its flavour, and chefs often prepare it in ways that allow its natural fragrance to shine. One traditional preparation is Dobin Mushi, a delicate broth cooked with seasonal ingredients inside a small clay teapot. Matsutake mushrooms, seafood and other ingredients are gently simmered in a light dashi broth, and the fragrant liquid is traditionally poured into a small cup and sipped before enjoying the ingredients inside the pot. Another popular preparation is Matsutake Gohan, where the mushrooms are cooked together with rice, allowing their beautiful aroma to infuse every grain. I imagine this is one of those dishes where the smell alone is enough to make you hungry before the food even reaches your table.
And then there is something that might surprise anyone who has never come across it before: Momiji Tempura, which is essentially deep-fried maple leaves! Yes, you read that correctly. Japan has found a way to turn one of autumn's most beautiful natural decorations into something edible. This unusual delicacy is particularly associated with Minoo in Osaka, where maple leaves are collected, preserved in salt for an extended period and eventually coated in a sweet batter, often containing sesame seeds, before being deep-fried. The result is a crunchy, slightly sweet snack that is enjoyed by visitors exploring the area's famous autumn foliage. I find this fascinating because it is such a uniquely Japanese way of bringing nature and food together. Most of us are busy taking photographs of beautiful autumn leaves, but somewhere in Osaka, someone decided those leaves could also make a rather interesting snack!
Of course, we cannot talk about Japanese autumn without mentioning Kaki (柿), or persimmons. These bright orange fruits are one of the most recognisable sights of the season, particularly in rural areas where you might spot them hanging from trees or drying outside people's homes. Persimmons are enjoyed fresh when ripe, offering a naturally sweet flavour and soft texture. However, another traditional preparation is Hoshigaki, which involves peeling persimmons, tying them onto strings and hanging them outside to dry. As they gradually lose moisture, the fruits become darker, sweeter and develop a wonderfully concentrated flavour and chewy texture. Some are also gently massaged during the drying process to encourage the formation of natural sugars on the surface. The sight of rows of orange persimmons hanging outside traditional Japanese houses is almost as iconic as the colourful autumn leaves themselves. It is also a beautiful example of how people have historically preserved seasonal produce so that they can continue enjoying it beyond its natural harvesting period.
While many of these foods can be enjoyed in restaurants and homes across Japan, there is one autumn food tradition that deserves its own little spotlight because it is not just about what people eat, but also about how they come together to prepare and enjoy it. I am talking about Imoni-kai (芋煮会), a beloved autumn gathering particularly associated with the Tohoku region, especially Yamagata and Miyagi prefectures. The tradition involves families, friends, colleagues and sometimes entire communities gathering along riverbanks to cook large pots of Imoni, a hearty stew made primarily with freshly harvested taro roots, known as satoimo. Other ingredients include meat, konjac, spring onions and a flavourful broth. However, what makes this tradition particularly interesting is that the recipe varies depending on where you are. In inland Yamagata, for example, the stew is traditionally prepared with beef and a soy sauce-based broth, while coastal areas such as Shonai have their own variations using pork and miso. In Miyagi, pork and miso are also commonly used. Large groups gather outdoors, sometimes building fires and preparing enormous cauldrons of stew to share. It is less about an elaborate dining experience and more about spending time together, enjoying good food and celebrating the season. Yamagata even hosts the famous Imoni Festival, where enormous pots are used to prepare thousands of servings for visitors. I love the communal aspect of this tradition because food has always been one of those things that brings people together, regardless of where they come from. There is something special about preparing a meal outdoors, sharing it with friends and family, and creating memories around a steaming pot of food.
Learning about all these seasonal foods has made me realise that Japanese autumn is about so much more than the beautiful scenery that initially captured my attention when I moved here. It is a season deeply rooted in appreciation, gratitude, harvest and togetherness. From the simple pleasure of enjoying freshly harvested rice to the elaborate traditions surrounding moon viewing, from the fragrant matsutake mushrooms to communities gathering along riverbanks for Imoni-kai, there is a story behind almost everything that finds its way onto the autumn dining table.
Perhaps that is one of the things I appreciate most about living in Japan. The seasons are not simply changes in temperature; they are experiences that influence how people eat, dress, celebrate and interact with the world around them. Even something as ordinary as buying groceries becomes an opportunity to discover what is in season. You begin noticing seasonal packaging, limited-edition snacks, autumn-inspired menus and ingredients that suddenly appear everywhere in supermarkets and convenience stores. It is almost impossible not to get caught up in the excitement.
As someone who grew up learning about autumn from a distance, I have come to appreciate the opportunity to experience it firsthand. I may have initially fallen in love with the comfortable weather and beautiful foliage, but I am slowly discovering that there is an entire culinary world waiting to be explored every autumn. And while I cannot claim to have tried every delicacy on this list just yet, I certainly enjoy learning about the traditions behind them.
So, if you happen to find yourself in Japan during autumn, perhaps take a little time to look beyond the colourful leaves and explore what the season has to offer on your plate. Try some freshly harvested rice, pick up a seasonal sweet potato snack, look out for chestnut-inspired treats or, if you are feeling adventurous, give some of the more traditional delicacies a try. You might discover a new favourite along the way.
After all, autumn in Japan is not just something to look at. It is something to taste, experience and enjoy.
Until next time, keep wandering, keep discovering and remember that sometimes the best way to understand a culture is to take a seat at its table.
With love,
Jez | Wander and Weave
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